Sewing Talk

What jackets to sew for mid-season?

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With spring just around the corner, it’s time to start thinking about mid-season jackets!

We’ve scoured the year’s fashions to give you some sewing ideas to get you ready for the return of warm weather.

The return of the Teddy

We’re starting this roundup of spring 2024 trends with a very casual garment, which can be worn with a dress, jeans, skirt… The teddy, or varsity jacket in the USA, is this jacket historically worn in American universities, with a bomber shape and contrasting sleeves. You’re bound to have seen it in films or TV series, often emblazoned with the Harvard logo.

It’s very much on trend this year, and you can sew it yourself quite easily, with or without the contrasting sleeves. Traditionally, it’s sewn with boiled wool (for the body) and leather (for the sleeves), but you can easily sew it with fine wool cloth, chambray, cotton and a light lining.

You can follow Super Bison’s Sesame pattern to make your own version of this cult garment.

The teddy is one of the must-have jackets right now!

The fitted blazer

In recent years, the oversized blazer has been worn over a linen t-shirt and jeans. This year, we’re more inclined to like them fitted, close to the body. That’s why we’re taking our patterns one size down with colorful fabrics (thick linen, cotton, chambray, velvet…): a bright royal blue, a deep fir green or a vitamin-packed canary yellow.

For a well-fitting blazer, follow Maison Fauve’s Manhattan pattern.

The secret to sewing a garment that fits perfectly is to start by making a canvas (a kind of draft sewn from inexpensive fabric) and adjusting it before sewing the final garment.

Sewing a blazer for mid-season can be an interesting challenge

The cargo or work jacket

In the same relaxed spirit as the bomber, the cargo jacket and work jacket will be among the major trends of spring 2024. These are fairly large jackets with large patch pockets that can be sewn with thick gabardine, corduroy (still very much on trend this year), denim or light wool for mid-season.

To sew this piece from the men’s wardrobe, choose the République du Chiffon pattern, Huguette.

Cargo jackets are in fashion

The quilted jacket

Already very popular last year, the quilted jacket remains on trend for 2024. There are two ways to go if you want to sew it yourself. You can either buy quilted fabric by the metre, as you would for sewing any other piece, or you can start with a cotton coupon and quilt it yourself. A more time-consuming solution, but one that offers greater choice in terms of colors and patterns.

To make your own quilted fabric, you need two pieces of cotton and a piece of wadding of the same size. These three layers are assembled by machine in a regular grid pattern. Quilted jackets are best worn in springtime with strong prints: large, colorful flowers, bandana motifs… Don’t hesitate to choose an original fabric!

The advantage of the quilted jacket is that it’s easy to sew. It’s a good project for people who are new to sewing. So it’s easy to find free, quick-to-make patterns, like this one from Ma petite mercerie.

Sew a quilted jacket? It's all the rage!

The bomber

Always with the idea of spending spring in loose, comfortable clothing, the bomber will also be very trendy. This jacket is easily recognized by its ribbed hems.

As with the quilted jacket, avoid black or navy blue bomber jackets, and don’t hesitate to opt for pastel colors such as powder pink, very much in vogue this season, or pale green. We can also go for strong patterns. Here again, we’re thinking flowers or paisley. And if you’ve mastered embroidery, you can use this talent to decorate the back with a motif of your choice – many designs are available free of charge on the DMC website.

To sew a colorful bomber, you can follow the Quai de Seine pattern from La Droguerie, which also allows you to make a matching sweater.

What are you going to sew for spring? Are you planning to make a jacket for the return of warm weather?

Please share!

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